10/14/2010 4:15:00 PM
Notes from Sue:
It’s Merely Chemistry

In Tahoe, even though our days are mild, the mornings and evenings are crisp and cool. Leaves are turning and the low oblique sun makes that pinky-golden diffused light that I so look forward to every autumn. It’s soup time!

My husband loves vegetable soups. Not the peasant kind of vegetable soups that I enjoy, with big course chunks of goodies in yummy broth. He prefers the refined French sort of “Cream of Vegetable” soup that is both intensely flavored and richly creamy all at the same time.
In my early cooking days I was a frequent student at a local cooking school where I was taught some basic food chemistry. That learning has served me well and I find that I rarely use a recipe for something simple like vegetable soup. I just use food chemistry principles and start throwing stuff in a pot. Cream soup is so easy that once you understand its structure, you can make simple changes to the basic recipe which will end up in thousands of delicious variations.
Think of cream soup ingredients as being a spread sheet. You simply choose something from column A (fats), something from column B (aromatics), something from column C (vegetables), , something from column D (broth), something from column E (herbs, spices and other flavor enhancers), and finally, something from column F (dairy). Toss it all in a pot, in order. And voila…soup!

Column A—Fats
I use virgin olive oil most of the time because of its delicious flavor and healthy benefits, but feel free to pick your fat of choice. Safflower, canola, peanut oil, coconut oil, butter, and even bacon grease are all delicious in soups. For a richer taste, try adding some butter to the olive oil in your soup pot. Since butter burns at a high temperatures, cutting it with oil makes it easier to cook with it at high heat.
Put about 2-4 tablespoons of your fat choice in the bottom of a large soup pot and turn the heat up to medium.

Column B—Aromatics
Aromatics include onions, scallions, leeks, shallots, and garlic. Choose the ones you think would go nicely with the vegetable you are going to work with and chop them coarsely and add to the heated fat. Saute for 5-10 minutes until the onions and garlic take on a translucent quality and begin to soften.
Column C—Vegetables
Here’s where you add the star of the show. Broccoli, cauliflower, bell peppers, peas, carrots, you name it, just about any vegetable can serve as the basis for creamed soup. Some soups feature more than one vegetable. It can deepen flavors if you include some celery or carrots, or perhaps toss in a tomato or some potatoes. Just use common sense. Think about what might go together nicely. Chop the vegetables coarsely to make 2-3 cups or so and throw them into the pot.
Column D—Stock
I almost always use organic chicken broth for my stock, but you can choose beef or vegetable broth, clam broth, fish or lobster stock or even water. Some vegetables taste wonderful with certain fruit juices. For example, carrots taste great in orange juice and winter squash works well with apple cider. Also, wine and other alcohol can be delicious in many soups. Try to add about 4 cups of broth in total. If you are using a fruit juice replace 1 or 2 cups of the broth with the juice. For wine, use only 1 cup. For brandy or sherry, try adding smaller amounts.

Column E—Herbs, Spices and Other Flavor Enhancers
Here’s where your creativity can come into play. For most soups I stick with salt and pepper along with some basic spices like thyme, and Fine Herbs. However, there are so many fabulous combinations to experiment with. Curry is great with cauliflower. Mint or tarragon goes with peas, ginger with carrots, sage with winter squash, cinnamon with pumpkin, and caraway with cabbage. These are all classic flavor combinations. But there’s nothing to stop you from finding others that you love.

And don’t forget about ginger, lemon and lime juice, balsamic or fruit vinegar, mustard, horseradish and any other flavor enhancers you have in your pantry or fridge. (If you’re wondering whether something will work or not, hold off on adding it until your soup has been cooked and pureed. Put a little cooked soup in a spoon and add a tiny bit of flavoring. Just taste it to see if you think it works.)
Anyway, toss in your favorite flavors and don’t forget to season carefully with fresh ground sea salt and pepper!

Put a lid on your pot and let the whole lot cook gently simmering until the vegetables are nice and soft. Transfer the solids to a food processor or blender and puree. You can leave the broth in the pot while you do this. If you want a very refined cream soup, put both the broth and puree through a sieve before you add them back to your soup pot. If not, just toss the puree back into the stock and stir. Lastly it’s time for…

Column F—Dairy
Dairy is, of course, what puts the “cream” into the cream soup. I usually like to add a cup of Half and Half or even cream, if I feel like I can handle the calories that week. You can use milk instead, but it’s not quite as rich, of course. The same goes for milk substitutes like soy milk and rice milk.
Just add the cup of dairy and stir, watching the soup closely for a few minutes while it heats up. Keep the heat on medium and don’t let the cream curdle.
You can also add a little cheese at this point. Many cheeses taste great with vegetables. Choose a combination that works well with your vegetable and spice choices. For instance, if you’ve used a lot of Italian spices, add some Parmesan. Cheddar cheese is great with broccoli. Swiss cheeses taste nice with sherry.
As soon as your soup is hot. Serve it up. If you’d like to add a little texture to the top of your bowl of soup, sprinkle in some cheese, fresh chopped herbs, bacon bits, homemade croutons, caramelized onions or anything else that makes sense to you.
Cream of Yellow Bell Pepper Soup

I made this soup last night without a recipe, of course. I just tossed in some things I had on hand following my usual “Choose one from Column A” spreadsheet method. It was delicious, simple to make and even 4 year old Luna loved it. (Kids like cream!)
2 T olive oil
½ large mild white onion chopped
3 yellow peppers chopped
1 medium tomato chopped
4 cups chicken broth
½ t thyme
1 sprig of fresh rosemary
Fresh ground sea salt and black pepper
1 cup Half and half
1 T balsamic
In a soup pot, saute the onion in the olive oil until soft. Add the peppers, tomato, broth, thyme, rosemary and S&P and simmer until vegetables are very soft. Process all solids in a food processor and return to soup pot. Add half and half and balsamic and stir until soup is hot enough to serve.
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